Last Reflections on Rome

I realize that I’m getting behind in my postings… here we are on the bus driving to Venice and I haven’t even finished with Rome. So here is a post to finish up my reflections on Rome, then I can move on to Florence.

The Coliseum in Rome was one of the highlights of the day. To think that what is visible today is only part of the original building (it is missing about a third of its original structure), and that the whole building was faced with marble at one time! The marble is all gone, stripped off and used elsewhere in Rome when the Coliseum fell in disuse. The Coliseum became abandoned when following Constantine’s (and the Empire’s) conversion to Christianity the Gladiator Fights were discontinued. Apparently that was the only real use for the facility, other entertainment was done in other buildings (for example the chariot races were at the Circus, the plays at various amphitheatres). Not only was the Coliseum the first stadium type structure in the world (a design still used today by modern stadiums), it was the first covered stadium! A large canvas roof could cover the entire seating and stage area. It would have been something to see this building in its glory days, filled with 50,000 people, glistening in its white marble façade. Even today in its run down condition it inspires awe.

The Forum was also interesting but mostly for the history lesson the guide was giving as we walked through the ruins. It was very hot and humid and some of our group elected not to walk up the hills to see the ruins. Beth and I went, took lots of pictures, but were glad to get back to the bus - to our comfortable seats and air conditioning!

After a small break in our hotel room (just to get off our feet for a bit), and a trip to the Church Vestment store, Beth and I took a cab to the Catacombs of Domitilla. It was a bit outside the city centre (because people were not allowed to bury the dead inside the city walls in ancient Rome). These were not the catacombs I had originally hoped to visit (which are closed on Wednesdays) but these were just down the road and had some interesting features as well.

After mistakenly getting put in with a German group, we finally got connected up with an English speaking guide, and down into the catacombs we went. It was fascinating to see some of these examples of the earliest Christian art and symbols. I was able trace my fingers over 2nd and 3rd century versions of the Chi Rho (the symbol that combines the Greek letters that look like a P and a X - and form the first two letters of the word Christ). We also saw a fresco from the 3rd century that featured Jesus and the apostles (including Paul in this particular case). We learned that the Christians couldn’t really have hidden down in the catacombs during the persecutions because there would not have been enough air and light for them to do so for very long. There may well have been times they held brief worship services down in the catacombs, but those would have been more like family memorial services of thanksgiving more than anything else. At one point walking through the catacombs were heard another group who were holding a worship service down there (which is something that could be arranged by contacting the priest in charge of the catacombs in advance).

One of the most interesting things I learned about the catacombs was why they still existed in such good shape in a region known for its earthquakes. It all has to do with the porous rock that the catacombs were carved out of. This rock would hold a lot of moisture, which would then make the stone somewhat flexible, thus in an earthquake the walls would move but not break, unlike the buildings on the surface made from harder materials which would crack and crumble. This was good to know as we found ourselves many metres underground and remembering the tragic earthquake in Italy that was in the news recently.

Once we surfaced from the catacombs I asked the preist in charge what the best way to get to Saint Peter’s Basilica was. He told us the bus was quite easy, though it required a change of routes at one point. We hesitated and asked if he could call us a taxi, to which he insisted the bus would not be a problem (and a tenth the price of a cab!) So armed with a little map we headed down the street to the bus stop. The first trick was finding the bus stop - I stopped at a gas station, pointed to circled locations on the map and in this way asked for directions. This process was duplicated many times as we asked people if we were at the right bus stop, or on the right bus. I must say, most of the Italians were quite helpful, even if they couldn’t speak English they often were able to make themselves know by pointing at the map and nodding, or wagging their finger.

Eventually we boarded a bus crammed with people. I looked for the fare receptacle at the front of the bus (where they have always been on any of the transit buses I’ve ever ridden), but I couldn’t see anything for this purpose near the driver. It didn’t matter, next thing I knew Beth and I were being moved with the crowd further inside the bus. Then I spotted a machine that you put your coins in to get a ticket (a 1 Euro coin is good for 75 minutes on the transit system) and another machine where you validated the ticket. However the bus was so crowded I couldn’t make my way to the machine. Beth suggested we just do that on the next bus.

After riding through a section of the city that seemed totally unfamiliar to me I was beginning to think this was a terrible mistake and that we were going to end up lost in Rome. But then we spotted some familiar landmarks, and one of the nice Italian lady who was trying to be helpful indicated that we should get off at the next stop (at least I think that’s what she was saying… she herself got off at the previous stop). We got off and with a few more enquiries we got on another bus (much less crowded) and I looked around for the machine to put in our two Euro coins… but no machine! There was one to validate the tickets, but not one to issue the tickets, so in the end our transit experience was free.

Eventually we ended up right by Saint Peter’s Basilica (which as you may know from previous posts was right close to our hotel) and we hopped off - surviving another Rome transportation adventure. Since the Pope had his Blessing Service earlier that day, Saint Peter’s Basilica was closed to the public until the mid-afternoon. After our tour with the local guide the line up to get into Saint Peter’s was very long, at least an hour or two wait… thus we didn’t line up (we went to the Catacombs instead). But now, close to 7 PM there was no line up at all! So in spite of being tired from a long day of sightseeing we headed into the largest church building in the world. One of the first things we saw was Michelangelo’s Pieta. There was marvellous sculptures and artwork everywhere. There were tombs of past popes (including the body of John Paul II displayed in a glass case). Beth felt it was a little weird or creepy (displaying the bodies of dead popes), and I felt the whole building was not so much for God’s glory, but to celebrate human achievements. It certainly was big, and definitely beautiful, but once again I felt somewhat spiritually uninspired being in that most famous of sacred buildings. (Perhaps I was simply on overload having seen so much that day.) However I will say that visiting Saint Peter's Basilica was certainly a grand conclusion to our sightseeing in Rome.